Kitchen Confidential: Vichyssoise

Here’s the perfect recipe for a chilly evening in late fall: a nice cold soup. Wait, what? Anthony Bourdain had the same surprised reaction when, as a child, he tried Vichyssoise for the first time. Eating this chilled potato leek soup was such a formative experience in the development of the future chef’s palate, that he described it in the opening lines of his memoir, Kitchen Confidential.

Published in 2000, Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly was the world’s introduction to Anthony Bourdain, then the executive chef at New York’s Brasserie Les Halles. It was also, for many, an introduction to the inner workings of the restaurant industry. And to the people who are crazy enough to work in said industry long-term.

This is the book that launched his career in the public eye, by offering a detailed look at something the public doesn’t normally get to see. And while his exploits and revelations may be shocking to many, this book isn’t written for the general public. Not really. It’s written for those who were in the trenches with him back in the kitchen, and those in every other kitchen around the world. For anyone who has worked in the restaurant industry, it’s not shocking, it’s incredibly relatable. And it’s funny!

Bourdain’s memoir of working his way up in the culinary world is really a love letter to the restaurant industry and its workers. It is, of course, an appreciation of good food–both consuming it and cooking it. But it’s also an appreciation of a world that not only accepts but embraces the outcasts, oddballs, screw-ups, eccentrics, and the downright insane.

Vichyssoise: A Cold Soup

Of course Anthony Bourdain would have a thing for Vichyssoise. It’s a soup that breaks all the rules. It challenges our understanding of the concept of soup. It’s a soup. But it’s cold! And it’s good!

Bourdain was first introduced to the soup as a child aboard a ship on its way to France.

“I’d eaten in restaurants before, sure, but this was the first food I really noticed. It was the first food I enjoyed and, more important, remembered enjoying….I remember everything about the experience: the way our waiter ladled it from a silver tureen into my bowl; the crunch of tiny chopped chives he spooned on as garnish; the rich, creamy taste of leek and potato; the pleasurable shock, the surprise that it was cold.”

Anthony Bourdain, Kitchen Confidential

A Vichyssoise Recipe

The soup that had such an effect on him as a child became a staple at the restaurant where he was executive chef as an adult. And he included the recipe in his Les Halles Cookbook for readers to recreate at home. The recipe I provide here is adapted from that recipe.

The soup itself is very simple to make, with only a few ingredients and very little hands-on time. I have made a few changes to the methods used in Bourdain’s recipe, to make it even easier for a home cook. Rather than transferring the hot soup to a blender in batches, for example, I use an immersion blender here. This makes it a lot easier, quicker, and way less messy. I also skip the ice bath and let the soup reach room temperature on its own. If you are in a hurry you can employ the ice bath method, however, as Bourdain’s recipe states, this soup gets better over time, so I would recommend making this the day before, if you have the time.

Despite the changes that I made, this recipe stays true to the original. And I definitely recommend adding the Les Halles Cookbook to your collection, both for the recipes and for the one-of-a-kind Bourdain commentary.

Happy Reading + Happy Eating!

Kitchen Confidential Vichyssoise

Pin Print

Rating: 5.0/5

( 1 voted )

Serves: 6 Prep Time: 5 Minutes Cooking Time: 1 Hour 15 Minutes, plus time to chill 1 Hour 15 Minutes, plus time to chill Nutrition facts: 200 calories 20 grams fat

Ingredients

• 4 Tbsp unsalted butter
• 6 large leeks (or 8 small-medium, it should be about 3 generous cups once rinsed and sliced), roots and greens removed (only use the white and pale green part)
• 2 medium-large gold potatoes (it should be about 3 generous cups once chopped), peeled and diced
• 1 32-ounce container or 4 cups chicken stock
• 2 cups heavy cream
• 1 pinch nutmeg
• salt and pepper, to taste
• fresh chives, to serve

Instructions

1. Cut the whites of the leeks in half lengthwise, then thinly slice. Place in a bowl and top with cold water. Using your hands, stir the leeks around to remove any dirt. Pour into a colander and rinse water until leeks are completely clean. Remove and pat dry with a paper towel.
2. Melt the butter in a large dutch oven over medium-low heat. Once melted, add the leeks and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes.
3. Add the potatoes and cook for another 2 minutes.
4. Increase heat to medium, pour in the chicken stock, and bring to a boil. Once boiling, reduce heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Let simmer until potatoes and leeks are soft, about 40-45 minutes.
5. Remove from heat and let cool at least 15-20 minutes (this step is not entirely necessary, but it's much safer to blend the soup when it's not scalding hot. If you choose to skip this step, proceed with caution).
6. Using an immersion blender, blend the soup until puréed.
7. Return to the stove over medium-low heat. Stir in the heavy cream and nutmeg, and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer and let simmer 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.
8. Once completely cooled, cover with plastic wrap or pour into container. Place in the fridge until chilled.
9. Once chilled, add salt and pepper to taste and serve topped with sliced chives.

Notes

Recipe adapted from Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles Cookbook

Did You Make This Recipe?

How did it turn out? Tag me on Instagram at @thelitkitch